When rebuilding a Triumph motorcycle motor it is imperitive that you clean the sludge trap, which is a centrifigal filter that is inside the crank shaft. This collects all the impurities and 'sludge' from the motor, the only downside is that when it is clogged up, no oil gets to your crank journals and about 20 seconds later as you are cruising down the highway your motor seizes or a rod busts through your cases. Way to go Triumph Motor Co. The tube can be a total pain to remove if you don't know how to do it, this is an easy way to remove the sludge trap tube, it took me a total of about 5 mintues to do.
You will need a nice sized tap for the job, something you may have to buy but this is good to use for any future motors you may be working on. A 3/8"-18 N.P.T. tap as pictured below works perfectly. It doesn't have to be Snap-On, get a cheaper one if this is soley going to be used for knocking sludge tubes out of cranks.
This tap seats perfectly in the sludge tube, which is accessible once the factory punch mark is drilled and the sludge trap plug is backed out (a good candidate for a future tech article!). Put some cutting fluid or oil on the threads of the tap, then help seat it lightly with a couple taps from your trusty hammer. I did clean out the sludge trap part way, if it is really compacted you may need to dig out some of the gunk to let the tap thread it's way down inside.
Go ahead and cut turn the tap, cutting threads into the inside of your sludge tube and making a nice tight fit. I would thread it in a good half inch, maybe more, you want the tube to come out, not to tear the threads out that you just made.
Now that your tap is threaded in, remove the locating bolt as pictured below, this holds your sludge trap tube in place correctly.
A little heat never hurt anyone's feelings (I think this quote may be attributed to Wes White). I also turn the tap a couple more rotations once the locating bolt is out, as this breaks the tube free and lets it rotate, making it easier to drive out.
A side note, MAP gas is way faster and hotter than Propane gas torches. If you use the typical blue bottle propane, do yourself a favor and spend $40 on a nice MAP gas torch, it does a much more efficient job of heating up big hunks of metal.
Simply clamp onto the square end of your tap with a pair of vice grips, and a couple abrupt thwacks with your hammer and the tube will drive up and out.
The sludge trap tube popped right out. This was at least half full of sticky, hard gunk. Not only that, but whoever put the tube in initially did it wrong, the tube was crushed and the locating bolt didn't make with it's hole. Just another verification on why it is important to rebuild your Triumph motor from the bottom up!
I'm gonna do my best to put cool shit up and write entries worth reading.
Little bout myself, oh by the way that's me in the tube socks on my old mans cone shovel, I'm from Iowa and have been racing, riding, obsessing, crashing, and trashing bikes for the extent of my existence on this planet. My first bike was a 1978 Jr. 50 Suzuki, then I moved on to a 1983 Z50R and from then was and array of Yamers, Honda's, and Zukes till I bought my first pig...Just finished a Triumph 650 Bonneville and since that was done working on a 49 bottom shovel top HD.
So Ive got a little background in the sickles and just fucking love riding with my buds and checking out new ideas, concepts, events, and meeting anyone who has enough time to sit down and shoot the shit about what gets their dick hard about the newest shit out there in the cycle world. One thing I have found out in the Cycle World is that you wont find a better group of people who are willing to give time and knowledge for the ultimate goal, RIDING!